Jean-Michel Durand is a passionate pastry chef, deeply attached to his territory and local products. Awarded for one of his creations, he opens the doors to his gourmet universe and shares the journey that led him to conceive an award-winning dessert, blending tradition, creativity, and regional know-how.
Can you tell us how this prized dessert was created and what inspired you ?
We wanted to create a dessert that fully embodies the autumn season, while paying tribute to our region, the Cévennes. The recent opening of our shop in Ganges also motivated us to imagine a creation that speaks of the territory and its terroir. This is how the idea of the “Cèpe” was born, a nod to this emblematic product of the region and to the surrounding nature.
Can you tell us about this dessert, its composition and its ingredients ?
The “Cèpe” consists of a base made of French meringue, filled with a chestnut cream in which you can find small pieces of candied chestnuts. The whole is covered with a thin layer of chocolate and enhanced with a hint of vanilla. The cap is a vanilla mascarpone whipped cream, hiding at its heart an insert of chestnut cream. A play of textures and flavors that recalls the Cévennes forest while remaining delicate and airy.
What was the biggest difficulty or the main challenge in creating this recipe ?
The development was not simple. We had to go through many trials to achieve the perfect texture: finding the right consistency for the cream, adjusting the height and the volume of each element... It is a work of precision so that the visual and the flavors are perfectly balanced.
If you had to describe this dessert in three words, which ones would you choose ?
I would say “indulgent”, “seasonal” and “light”... even though that’s already four words, because it’s not too sweet. It’s a dessert that combines the richness of autumn flavors with a certain lightness, without heaviness.
Will this dessert now be part of the menu or is it a limited edition ?
We will be offering it throughout the winter, as it fits well with this period. Then, it is quite possible that we will evolve it according to the seasons, for example by changing the flavor of the heart or some ingredients to adapt it to current products.
Tell us a bit about your journey. What made you want to become a pastry chef and settle in our territory ?
Since I was little, I have always loved pastry. It’s a passion inspired by my mother, who cooked a lot at home. So I naturally started my apprenticeship at 16. I worked for twenty years alongside my boss before taking over the pastry shop with my brother-in-law. It has now been seventeen years since we settled in, and we continue to evolve the business with the same passion.
Were you already from the region ?
Yes, I am from here. I grew up in the region and naturally returned. It’s a territory to which I am very attached.
What place does the local terroir occupy in your creations? Do you use products or producers from the area ?
As much as possible, yes. We regularly work with local producers, especially for fruits, and even for some vegetables when we make savory creations. It’s important for us to value local products and to promote the terroir through our desserts.
And finally, what are your next projects or desires for the future? A new dessert in preparation perhaps ?
Yes, several ideas are already germinating! We are working on a dessert featuring peanuts and passion fruit, to bring a touch of exoticism. And as pear season is in full swing, we would also like to create a version in the same spirit as the “Cèpe”, but with these new flavors.
